Prawda kolejna jest taka że GM nie ma szans na przebicie się. Będzie wprowadzał coraz nowsze rozwiązania .... i to jest z niego korzyść. Blue i Red za chwilę mają to samo i to na tych regulatorach jeżdżą najlepsi i do tego szybciutko przekonują się zawodnicy. Nawet jak kupią GM czy inne regulatory.

I na koniec:

Nikt do Was nic nie ma. Ale jak piszecie jaki to dobry regulator - napiszcie na potwierdzenie tego kto ze śwaita RC na nich jeździ i co wygrywa. Bo fakt jest taki że co by GM nie robił to sie nie wbije do czołówki (tak samo jak inni). Czołówka jest zarezerwowana dla innych producentów czy to sie komuś podoba czy też nie. Fakt jest faktem

Modified Overall A-main results
1. Hara Atsushi – 2pts [Hot Bodies/GM]
2. Rheinard Marc – 4pts [Tamiya/Speed Passion]
3. Wilck Viktor – 5pts [Tamiya/Speed Passion]
4. Groskamp Jilles – 5pts Tamiya/Team Orion]
5. Graversen Steen – 7pts [Tamiya/Speed Passion]
6. Prümper Yannic – 10pts [Tamiya/Speed Passion]
7. Wubben Bart – 12pts [Xray/Speed Passion]
8. Ehrbar David – 13pts [Xray/Speed Passion]
9. N’diaye Cyril – 14pts [Tamiya/LRP]
10.Moore Andy – 18pts [Hot Bodies/Team Orion]

Mnie bardziej zaskoczyła spora obecność modów Exotec'a.

GM made easy – V13.0

Since I wrote the last tutorial quite a while back I feel like with V13.0 it is a little outdated.
So here is a new one.


Download V13.0: http://www.gm-racing.de/rwdownload/index.php?dl=154
This Tutorial bases on the file: V13_basic.gd2
I MESSED up the Transmitter data so please note that if you copy this file onto your speedo you NEED to redo your transmitter setup (-> pick the mode via transmitter).
When properly done, the full throttle value should be something around 1.9ms, neutral between 1.4-1.5ms and the full brake value should be around 1.1ms.

With this file there are only 4 values that you change according to the motor / class you race and the track you race on.

1, Amp Limit

For any kind of Stock Racing (13.5/17.5 or slower) 80A is by all means enough. Most drivers actually prefer even less. In regular racing you actually not really reach that value anyway and in the cases you do reach that anything above 80A only creates heat instead of power.

For 10.5/6.5 the Amplimit should be 130 – 150A
For Modified (5.5 / 4.5) 140-180A is the desired range

2, Switchpoint RPM

When racing Stock I usually prefer not to use a switchpoint (Reserved 4=1). But this requires really smooth throttle control sometimes so in the sample file I enabled the switchpoint (Reserved 4=3) and set it to 10000 RPM. Anything Less is pretty much pointless.

Note: The LRP X12 requires a switchpoint to start properly! (different sensor position)

For 10.5/6.5 the switchpoint should be between 15 – 25000

For Modified 5.5T 25000
4.5T 35000

3, Fixed Timing / Max Timing

Fixed Timing handles the power! The value for both Fixed and Max Timing can only vary between 0 and 30! Max Timing values above 30 will disable the Max Timing feature!
Max Timing is only use when the launch control has been activated ( no throttle input for atleast 5 seconds). So you can have that extra bit for the start.
I always set Max Timing to Fixed Timing +1 as a general rule.

I know that people tend to overdo it with the timing values so here is what should be the highest values:

Graupner / Corally 13.5: 25
GM 13.5T: 24
LRP X11 13.5: 29
LRP X12 13.5: 20!!!
Speedpassion 13.5: 25

Modified (GM) 5.5T: 15
Modified (GM) 4.5T: 12

4, Motor Cutoff Temperature

The Tempcheck Feature only works with GM, Graupner, Novak, LRP X12 and Corally Motors.
Speedpasson and LRP X11 do not feature a Temperature Sensor so be carefull not to blow those up.

Values for various motors:

GM motors: 115°C
Graupner / Corally motors: 125°C
Novak: 115°C
LRP X12: 120°C

That’s it.

What if:

-The Motor gets too hot: gear harder / use less fixed timing
-The Motor is running cool but there’s not enough power: gear harder / use
more fixed timing
-The Motor feels slughish but temps and power are ok: you are overgeared
(although you really need to gear superhard to reach that point! (indoors
around 4.2 with 13.5T)
-Not enough brakes with LRP X11: update to V13.0 and set Reserved 4 (in
the telemetry tab) to 5 (if you used 1 ‘no switchpoint’ before) and 7 (if you
used 3 ‘HST with switchpoint’)
But with the basic file posted, there should be enough brakes as this has
been set already.
-Sudden loss of power: clean the motor and especially the sensors, check
the senor wire and the magnet

Basic Tips:

-A fan is always better as it enables you to run more timing
-Always make sure your motor is really clean

LRP X11:

-Set the Motortiming to 3.2mm
-Change magnets regularly as the tend to fade which generates more heat
and less power
-The motor can handle up to 130°C. You are save up to around 110°C.

Czy to nowe oprogramowanie można wgrać np. do starego GM 70? Gdzie można znaleźć pełny changelog?

Odzyskiwanie energii podczas hamowania było już w starych wersjach regulatorów.

GM zaczął sie bawić na całego w nowej wersji oprogramowania 13.0 oprócz kilku poprawek jest jedno ciekawe rewolucyjne rozwiązanie.
Jak się hamuje to energia jest zwracana do akumulatora. W rezultacie hamulec działa płynniej i regulator się mniej grzeje.
Aaaa, i dla tych co zawsze dojeżdzają na "oparach" jest szansa na zdobycie przewagi...

...i jeszcze jedno, wreszcie dostępny GM75 jest piękny.

Nie, nie można. Stare regle w zależności od konstrukcji to V7.6 lub 120/90 = V8.0, update tylko w GM, zasadnicza różnica w elektronice

Nowe regle już można samodzielnie.

m.